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Τρίτη 13 Σεπτεμβρίου 2011

Ακτινοβολία κεραίας

The purpose of this article is to explore the basic principles regarding how an antenna radiates.
Some explanations of electromagnetic phenomena have been around for many years [1] but very little has found its way into amateur radio literature. It is hoped that the following will help to clear up the some of the mysteries of 'near' and 'far' fields and the differences between radiation resistance and ohmic resistance in an antenna.
The final part of the article describes how electromagnetic waves were discovered.
Sources used are indicated by a number in square brackets and referenced at the end.
Conductors and Insulators.
As you are all probably all aware, the atomic structure of material is most often described as being planetary in nature, a model first proposed in 1913 by Niels Bohr. In this model electrons orbit a nucleus as planets orbit a star in a solar system. The electron's orbital velocity and mass are in balance with the electrical force between the electron (arbitrary assigned negative) and the nucleus (positive). In a copper atom 29 electrons orbit the nucleus at four specific distances known as shells. The electron in the outer shell is easily detached from the atom by any weak field; these electrons are termed free electrons. At room temperature there are trillions of free electrons moving randomly from atom to atom. When an external electrical force, such as voltage from a battery, is applied to the conductor then the free electrons migrate from atom to atom.
Unlike copper most materials, say, wood, are not good conductors; they are instead insulators or ‘dielectrics’. In them, comparatively few electrons are available to move in response to the impressed electric or magnetic field. Of course there’s some movement or ‘displacement’ of electrons, the stronger the electric field, the greater the displacement.
Fundamental Stuff [2]
The difficulty about really fundamental things like electric charges is that there is nothing more fundamental that can be used to describe them. When I described an atom of copper above, electrons were mentioned. Now although we can say a lot about what the electrons do we cannot say what they are. So fundamental things can only be discussed in terms of mental pictures, like the Bohr model of the atom. We also use analogies and mathematical concepts, etc., such as 'lines of force'. This is very helpful in enabling people make practical use of things they really don’t understand. The fact that nobody knows what electrons are has not prevented them being used in most complicated and ingenious ways.
Usually all concerned manage to agree to use the same mental pictures when they discuss these fundamental things or perform the calculations necessary to exploit them to the best advantage.
Although these concepts are so helpful, and it is difficult to see how we could carry on engineering and other applied sciences without them, they are dangerously liable to mislead us into accepting them as realities.
Take 'lines of force' for example. We know by experiment that exceptional things happen in the space around what we are pleased to call 'electrically charged bodies'. We just don’t understand why or how these things happen, but it has been found by careful study that they always happen in certain definite ways and with certain numerical relationships. So scientists have defined various quantities such as charge and potential, and have enunciated various laws connecting them, and to help you and me to grasp these they have imagined; such things as 'lines of force'. Owing to the care with which these things have been defined, they make up a consistent system, and one can work about with them and design electrical and radio appliances and predict their performance with confidence. But they are quite arbitrary. If aliens in a planet in the outer fringes of Andromedia are using radio technology they will no doubt have developed completely different ways of thinking about the subject.
The Electron and the E-Field [1] [3]
The electric force of an electron has already been mentioned. The electron is visualised in Fig 1A as a spherical object, which is the source of an electric field known as the E-Field. This field diverges from the electron; that is, it spreads out in three dimensions from that electron in straight lines until it reaches the limits of the universe. In reality most of the E lines from an electron will not go to infinity, but will rather go toward some positive charge, say a hydrogen nucleus (proton) nearby. Initially we will simplify our model by considering a universe that consists of one individual electron..

Fig 1: A. Diverging lines of force from an electron. This is a two-dimensional picture; the lines of force from an electron radiated in three dimensions. B. If the electron is suddenly moved a discontinuity in these lines of force will occur. This discontinuity moves away from the electron at the speed of light.
If the electron is suddenly moved to a different position there will also be a shift in the lines of force. This causes kinks in these lines, see Fig 1B, which move away from the electron at the speed of light.
To simplify the visualisation process we will now only consider one E line associated with this electron. As shown in Fig 2A, a sudden shift in the position of our electron has produce a 'kink' in the E field line, which is travelling away from the electron.

Fig 2. (A) A kink in an E-field line due to the movement of the electron which produced the field. (B) Continuously wiggled electron (up and down) creates a continuously radiating e-field. (C) An H field created by the E-field. (D) An electromagnetic wave, comprising E and H fields with their phases in locked together and their vectors at a right angles to each other.
This kink propagates away from the electron, updating the rest of the field that has lagged behind Part of the energy exerted by the force that moved the electron is expended to propagate the kink in the field. Therefore, the kink carries with it radiating energy; and because the field diverges in all directions, as shown in Fig 1 the energy radiates in all directions.
The strength of the kink depends on how quickly the electron is moved from one position to the next (acceleration). To make the field radiate continuously the electron must be continuously wiggled or vibrated, see Fig 2(B).
The Magnetic Field [1] [3]
We all know that there is a magnetic field associated with any movement of electrons (current flow) and if the current varies so does the magnetic field. Thus our oscillating electron creates an oscillating magnetic field, known as the H-Field as shown in Fig 2(C).
In the same instant that we are producing a vertically oriented E field, (using the orientation shown in Fig 2(B), we are also producing a horizontally oriented H field. These two fields will be in time phase; that is, the peak of the sine wave will be the same in the E and the H fields, see Fig 2(D). These two fields are locked together due to the fact that they were produced by a single event, the acceleration of the electron. They will always travel along with their phases in locked together and their vectors at a right angle to each other. Such a wave is called an Electromagnetic (EM) wave
The Big Picture [3] [4]
A single electron won't produce a very powerful EM wave, no matter how fast or how much it is vibrated, so practical antennas vibrate lots of electrons at some rather high accelerations.
We know that an electric current in a conductor is simply a mass migration of free electrons. If the current is alternating, as in an antenna, the free electrons in a given locality vibrate back and forth in unison driven by a potential supplied by the transmitter. Evidently, then, any individual electron moves to and fro around an average position. Let's see how far and how fast this electron might travel.
Consider an antenna made of 2.5mm diameter copper wire and being excited by a transmitter on 14.1 MHz. Each free electron near the surface of the wire is executing 14.1 million cycles of motion per second. Knowing the number of free electrons per cubic mm of copper, the electric charge on each, and the depth of RF penetration into the wire (the skin depth), we can calculate the peak speed of an electron at a place where the RMS antenna current is, say, one ampere. The result comes out to be less than 10mm per second. At that rate the electron doesn't move very far during each half cycle of vibration, its peak-to-peak travel being less than a millionth of a millimeter. From an electron's perspective this distance is quite respectable, being tens of thousands of times its own diameter.
We can compute the electron's deceleration and acceleration, which are greatest when the electron is coming to a stop and then starting up in the other direction. At an antenna current of one ampere, these quantities reach more than 50.000 gs.
A hot lamp filament is also decelerating and accelerating a lot of electrons, but they are in random phase. Therefore, the contributions of the individual electrons add at random. We call this 'incoherent' light. A laser and an antenna decelerate and accelerate all of the electrons in phase so that a distant EM waves all add in phase.
A Digression - The Nature of Space [3]
Empty space is a medium through which energy can be transmitted. It has zero gain and no attenuation. Furthermore, it is perfectly linear, which means that the weakest signals and the most powerful can be accommodated without interaction. For example, the tiny signals from the most distant space probe can be received in the presence of all the broadcast transmissions on the planet and the colossal level of EM energy from the sun. Because these fields do not interact then we can assume that the vector sum of a number of fields will be the simple sum and not include some product terms as would be the case if space were non-linear. This is known as the principle of superposition.
One of the implications of superposition is that we can consider each electron individually when it comes to the generation of EM waves. Then, we can simply add up the effects of each electron to determine the overall strength of EM waves in all space. Fortunately, superposition teaches us that we can also do our analysis by taking a group of electrons here and another there and once the effects of each group has been determined, we can add them all together to get the total effect.
The speed at which the energy spreads is determined by the characteristics of space. These characteristics include both a non-zero dielectric constant (permittivity Note 1), which permits space to store energy in an E field, and a non-zero magnetic constant (permeability Note 2) which permits space to store energy in an H field. These combine to produce a definite value for C, the speed of propagation of EM waves in space, better known as the speed of light.
Its electric permittivity and magnetic permeability determine its characteristic impedance, which is about 377 ohms
Near Fields [3]
In the real world of antennas our ability to produce the ideal current configurations described above is limited. There are certain side effects; one of these is the production of so called 'near' fields.
If we consider the dipole; once current begins flowing, charge will build up on the ends, simply because it has nowhere to go. This charge will produce a voltage between one end of the dipole and the other and will thus be, in effect, be a capacitor. There will be E fields from the positive pole of the capacitor to the negative pole. These E fields, being part of a capacitor, are reactive or 'near' fields.
The H fields produced by the current in a dipole are directly the result of RF currents and are therefore part of the radiated wave. However, in a dipole there will be near H fields produced by the displacement currents, which exist while the E field is building or collapsing. These near E and near H fields, unlike the EM waves produced by oscillating electrons, are not coupled. Their ratios can be individually controlled, for example, by changing the geometry of the dipole. Furthermore, the H field reaches its maximum when the E field is changing the fastest, and the capacitive E field its maximum when the voltage at the ends of the dipole are maximum. Therefore, the two fields in Fig 3 are not in time phase, like the E and H in the EM wave shown in Fig 2D. This is why the near fields do not radiate, but simply store energy in the immediate vicinity of the antenna. We would just as soon do without them, but they are an inevitable 'parasitic' effect of the operation of the antenna.


Fig 3: The E and H fields are produced individually by either a current or a voltage and do not affect each other in any way. These E and H fields exist in relatively close proximity to the antenna, are 180 degrees out of phase with each other and, collectively known as the reactive or near field.
Near field strengths die out very quickly with distance from the antenna. Thus, when measuring the gain or pattern of an antenna, one must be sure to be in the region where the near fields have fallen well below the radiated fields or a false result will be obtained. This danger has led some to draw false conclusions in the past about a particular antenna's performance. We could avoid this source of error if instruments could be made that only measured EM waves and did not respond to reactive E or H fields.
Radiation Resistance Versus Ohmic Resistance [4]
The radiation and induction fields of a vibrating electron exist right down to the electron. Since the electron carries an electric charge, and since an electric charge is pulled by an electric field it follows that a force is exerted on the very electron that is producing them. The effect is a drag proportional to speed, as if the electron were moving through a viscous fluid. This drag force is the cause of radiation resistance.
An electron moving in a conductor also feels a drag force that is due to frequent progress-impeding collisions between the electron and the atoms in its path. This drag is the cause of ohmic resistance, the familiar R in Ohm's Law.
Both kinds of resistance dissipate energy at a rate equal to the resistance times the square of the current. Of course, energy dissipated this way doesn't actually disappear. An alternating current, flowing against radiation resistance, turns electrical energy into radiant energy, which wings its way off into space. Current flowing against ohmic resistance transforms electrical energy into heat, which is mechanical vibration of the atoms of the conductor - the atoms vibrate when they're hit by the moving free electrons.
Radiation resistance varies along the length of an antenna wire, but it is independent of the diameter and material of the conductor. The middle third of a half-wave. 14MHz dipole has a radiation resistance of 1.3 ohms per 100mm. That's nearly 80 times the ohmic resistance of clean 2.5mm copper wire at this frequency. Closer to the ends of the antenna, the radiation resistance is even higher.
How Radio Waves were Discovered [5]
Earlier, I mentioned the work of individuals who defined various quantities and enunciating various laws connecting them. Some of the most important of these are:
Charles Augustin de Coulomb (1736 - 1806). Devised mathematical formula used to calculate the force between two charged bodies (Coulomb's Law).
Count Alessandro Volta (1745 - 1827). Inventor of the battery and the capacitor.
Andre-Marie Ampere (1775 - 1836). Invented the electromagnet and defined the unit of current.
Michael Faraday (1791 -1867). Discovered and defined electromagnetic induction
In 1873, James Clerk Maxwell (1831 - 1879) published the first unified theory of electricity and magnetism based mainly on the experimental work of Faraday. This work led to him to postulate the existence of electromagnetic waves. A simplified, intelligible and non-mathematical explanation of how Maxwell discovered electromagnetic waves quoted below is by Paul Sagan [5].
"Here they are, the four Maxwell equations for the behaviour of electricity and magnetism in matter:
Ñ . E = r/e0
Ñ . B = 0
Ñ x E = -B!
Ñ x B = m0j + m0 e0E! 
(Note: In the original B! is B with a dot above it and E! an E with a dot above it, beyond the capabilities of my system)
"It takes a few years of university-level physics to understand these equations. They are written using a branch of mathematics called vector calculus. A vector, written in bold-face type, is any quantity with both a magnitude and a direction. Sixty km an hour isn’t a vector, but sixty km an hour due north on the M1 motorway is.
"E and B represent the electric and magnetic fields. The triangle, called a nabla (because of its resemblance to a certain ancient Middle Eastern harp), expresses how the electric or magnetic fields vary in three-dimensional space. The ‘dot product’ and the ‘cross product’ after the nablas are statements of two different kinds of spatial variation.
E! and B! represent the time variation, the rate of change of the electric and magnetic fields. j stands for the electrical current. The lower-case Greek letter r (rho) represents the density of electrical charges, while e0 (epsilon zero) and m0 (mu zero) are not variables, but properties of the substance E and B are measured in, and determined by experiment. In a vacuum, e0 and m0 are constants of nature (see notes 1 and 2).
Considering how many different quantities are being brought together in these equations. it’s striking how simple they are. They could have gone on for pages, but they don’t.
The first of the four Maxwell equations tells how an electric field due to electrical charges (electrons, for example) varies with distance (it gets weaker the farther away we go). But the greater the charge density (the more electrons, say. in a given space) the stronger the field.
The second equation tells us that there’s no comparable statement in magnetism, because magnetic ‘charges’ (or magnetic ‘monopoles’) do not exist: Saw a magnet in half and you won’t be holding an isolated 'north' pole and an isolated 'south' pole; each piece now has its own ‘north’ and ‘south’ pole. The third equation tells us how a changing magnetic field induces an electric field. The fourth describes the converse - how a changing electric field (or an electrical current) induces a magnetic field
"The four equations are essentially distillations of generations of laboratory experiments performed by the individuals (and others) named above. What is described here vaguely and qualitatively, the equations describe exactly and quantitatively.
Maxwell then asked himself a strange question: what would these equations look like in empty space, in a vacuum, in a place where there were no electrical charges and no electrical currents? We might very well anticipate no electric and no magnetic fields in a vacuum. Instead, he suggested that the right form of the Maxwell equations for the behaviour of electricity and magnetism in empty space is this:
Ñ . E = 0
Ñ . B = 0
Ñ x E = -B!
Ñ x B = m0 e0E!
"He set r equal to zero, indicating that there are no electrical charges. He also set j equal to zero, indicating that there are no electrical currents. But he didn’t discard the last term in the fourth equation, m0 e0E!, the feeble displacement current in insulators.
"Why not? As you can see from the equations, Maxwell’s intuition preserved the symmetry between the magnetic and electric fields. Even in a vacuum, in the total absence of electricity, or even matter, a changing magnetic field, he proposed, elicits an electric field and vice versa. The equations were to represent the elegance of Nature. (There was also another, more technical reason for preserving the displacement current in a vacuum, which is beyond the scope of this article.)
"Briefly, the four Maxwell equations for a vacuum say (1) there are no electrical charges in a vacuum; (2) there are no magnetic monopoles in a vacuum; (3) a changing magnetic field generates an electrical field; and (4) vice versa.
When all the equations were written down like this, Maxwell was readily able to show that E and B propagated through empty space as if they were waves. What’s more, he could calculate the speed of the wave. It was just 1 divided by the square root of e0 times m0. But e0 and m0 had been measured in the laboratory. When the numbers where plugged in it was found that the electric and magnetic fields in a vacuum appeared to propagate, astonishingly, at the same speed as had already been measured for light, see Note [3]. The agreement was too close to be accidental. Suddenly, disconcertingly, electricity and magnetism were deeply implicated in the nature of light. Since light now appeared to behave as waves and to derive from electric and magnetic fields Maxwell called it electromagnetic."
And Finally
The professional radio engineer and mathematical purist will probably deem this article simplistic and rightly so. However, there can be many different levels of understanding on any subject, and we must recognise that at all these levels, all we have are models at different levels of sophistication. Furthermore, a simple model may help us sort out the wood from the trees. It is not unusual to see scientific papers, which are so obscure that we have to rely on the supposed veracity of the authors, or on the logical soundness of the mathematics. More than once in the past has an unsound antenna design been be hidden beneath logically correct and incorrect mathematics.

Πέμπτη 30 Ιουνίου 2011

Κεραία loop για λήψη

Ragchewing on 75 meters with the locals (several hundred miles) can be a lot of fun. The summer months, however, with their high static and noise levels, can be brutal on the ears. I have found that a small receive-only loop antenna can be used to make the situation much more tolerable. This page describes an easy-to-build loop that I have built several times for myself and friends. We tend to congregate on 3.805 MHz, so I call this version the 3805er.
The perimeter length of the loop is 12 feet, and it is in a diamond shape. It is approximately 4 feet wide and 5 feet tall. It is certainly possible to use the loop in the shack, although I find the performance to be better when the loop is outside.

A 3805er up against the garage

Introduction

In order to improve reception, it is necessary to improve the signal to noise ratio. Common 80 meter antennas such as low dipoles, inverted Vees, or verticals, suffer on receive because they have a nearly omnidirectional response pattern. While the desired signal is arriving from one direction, noise can arrive from all directions. A loop antenna such as the 3805er improves this situation because it has broadside nulls at very low wave angles. Most radio signals within several hundred miles tend to arrive at much higher wave angles (above 45 degrees), and at those angles, the loop response is nearly omnidirectional. Often times, noise is relatively local, and arrives at a low angle. The loop can be oriented to reduce the reception of this noise. Less noise, same signal, improved signal to noise ratio.
Technically, the 3805er is a single-turn shielded loop antenna. This type of loop is described in the ARRL Antenna Book, and the ON4UN book. Some sources state that the shielded nature of the loop provides additional noise immunity by shorting the (noisy) electric field to ground while responding to the magnetic field. Because of that belief, this type of antenna is also called a magnetic loop. I'm not sure if I believe that particular theory, but in any case, the loop can improve reception of short-distance radio signals.
In my experience, this type of antenna is most useful for short-distance work in the summer months. I do not consider it to be a good DX antenna, although it has been used for DX by some. When winter comes, and 80 meter noise tends to drop naturally, the advantage of the loop often disappears. Please note that the 3805er is a receive-only antenna. In order to use it, it is almost a necessity that your radio provides a separate receive antenna input jack. This antenna, like most receiving antennas, will have very low output compared to transmit antennas. In some cases, a preamp can be useful. It is entirely normal that when using this antenna you will have a nearly S0 noise level, and the station you are working will barely move the meter. What will be missing is the deafening noise crashes and static bursts that contribute to ear fatigue.

Design

The antenna design is certainly not original. The loop is constructed from small diameter 50 ohm coax, such as RG8X. Any coax diameter or characteristic impedance can be used, so long as an appropriate capacitor resonates the antenna at the desired frequency.
In order to preserve the broadside nulls, the literature suggests that the length of the loop wire should be less than 0.1 wavelength. That limits our perimeter length to no more than 25 feet. I chose the 12 foot length since it naturally falls out from using standard 4 foot dowels for spreader arms. I also wanted a loop that could be used inside as well as outside, and the 4 foot dowel-based form is light and not difficult to move around.
I use a small trimmer capacitor to resonate the loop at the desired frequency, 3.805 MHz. A loop built following my dimensions and geometry has an inductance of approximately 5.3 uH at 3.805 MHz. This is around 125 ohms of inductive reactance. A 325 pF capacitor will be needed to achieve resonance. I happened to have a bag of 270 pF hamfest trimmers, so I parallel an 80 pF silver mica capacitor across the trimmer to get up to the needed value. I also usually include a small step-up transformer to match the low loop impedance to the 50 ohm feed line. This is an optional part of the design. I do find that the addition of the transformer increases loop output. The transformer is wound on a 1/2 inch ferrite core. Any mix suitable for the frequency will do (#75 (best), #43, etc.).

loopant.gif (5313 bytes)
3805er Schematic

Parts List

In order to build your own 3805er, collect the following parts:

Parts List
Part Description
Quantity
12 feet of 50 ohm mini coax (RG8X)
2
PL-259 coax connector with mini coax insert
1
4 foot dowel rod, 5/8 inches in diameter
2
3/4 inch aluminum tubing, 3 inches long
2
3/4 inch aluminum tubing, 18 inches long
1
2 3/4 inch X 2 1/8 inch X 1 3/4 inch aluminum project box
1
1/4 inch grommet
3
1/4 inch X 20 stainless steel bolt, 2 inches long, and locking nut
1
1/4 inch screw eye
3
#8 X 1/2 inch long stainless steel machine screw
3
terminal strip, 5 lug
1
variable trimmer capacitor, approx. 350 pF (see text)
1
cable ties, small
3
cable ties, large
3
1/2 inch ferrite core toroid, #75 or #43 material
1
solid hookup wire, #22
2 feet
electrical tape
8 inches


3805er Parts
In addition to these parts, and common hand tools, you will need a drill and several different drill bits. One bit makes the hole for the grommets. For a 1/4 inch hole grommet, a typical drill bit size is 3/8 inch.  You will need a 1/4 inch drill bit for the 3 inch aluminum tubes and the 1/4 inch X 20 stainless steel bolt that joins the tubes and dowels. Finally, you will need a drill for the #8 screws that attach the project box to the 18 inch aluminum tube. The bit needs to be slightly smaller than the screw so that you can use the screw in a self-tapping manner. The diameter is approximately 1/8 inch, but size it according to your screws.
If you wish to accurately resonate the antenna, and optimize the output of the antenna, you will need an antenna analyzer that measures SWR as a function of frequency.

Assembly

Here's how I assemble a 3805er.
  • Select one 12 foot length of coax to be the antenna. To both ends, remove 1 inch of the outer jacket, and collect the braid into a single stranded wire. Remove 1/4 inch of the inner conductor insulation. Find the middle of the coax (6 feet from either end). Remove a 1 inch section of the outer jacket, and then remove the braid from around this 1 inch region. The braid must be electrically broken at this point. Seal the exposed braid ends, especially if you are going to mount this antenna outside. I paint the braid ends with liquid electrical tape, cover the entire exposed area with electrical tape, then finish off the region with a piece of heat shrink tubing. No doubt this is overkill.

Dressed coax ends and braid removed from center of antenna coax
  • The other piece of coax is the feed line. I have found that a 12 foot length with a PL-256 plug lets me move the antenna to my various sites and simply plug it in and go. If you would prefer a different length or connector, certainly adjust my comments to your situation. Whatever the length and connector, prepare the antenna end of the cable as in the previous step. Remove 1 inch of the outer jacket, collect the braid into a single stranded wire. Remove 1/4 inch of the inner conductor insulation.
  • I like to apply some sort of stain/protector to the bare wooden dowels. In some climates, a bare dowel will barely last a year. With staining, mine last for many years.
  • Place a 3 inch aluminum tube over each dowel, and center it over the center of the dowel. With normal aluminum tubing wall thickness, the 5/8 inch dowel will fit snugly within the 3/4 inch tube. You could use other combinations of dowels and tubes so long as the dowel fits within the tube. I find that this combination is a good balance between strength and size.
  • Drill a 1/4 inch hole in the middle of each 3" aluminum tube. Since the dowel is in the tube, you will also drill a hole in the dowel. Try to keep the hole in the center of the tube, perpendicular to the tube length.
  • Put the 2 inch stainless steel bolt through the two tube/dowel assemblies. You should now have a cross or X of dowels. Place the locking nut over the bolt end in order to keep the arms together.

Center of the loop, showing 3 inch tubes around dowels with bolt as center pin
  • Install the screw eyes into 3 of the 4 dowel ends. The end without a screw eye is the bottom of the antenna.
  • With the cross in front of you, on the floor or a table, lay out the antenna coax around the perimeter of the cross. The ends of the coax come together at the bottom of the antenna. That is the dowel end without a screw eye. The middle of the antenna, where the break in the braid is located, is at the top of the antenna. Take the three larger cable ties and put them around the coax and through the screw eyes. You do not need to pull them tight at this point. Keep a little slack in them at this point so that the antenna coax can shift around as the junction box is installed.
  • Drill three, 3/8 inch holes in the aluminum junction box for the antenna ends and the feed line. All of the holes are drilled in the piece that has the ends. Drill a hole in the center of each end for the antenna. Drill the feed line hole in the lower right corner of the same piece when looking into the piece (see the parts photo). Put a grommet in each hole.
  • Drill two more holes in the same piece. These two holes, approximately 1/8 inch, are for the two sheet metal screws that hold the box to the 18 inch aluminum tube. The upper hole also holds the terminal strip. See the picture for more information.
  • Put the coax ends through the appropriate holes. The goal now is to attach the small cable ties to the coax so that the ends cannot be pulled out of the box. My experience has been that a small cable tie, wrapped twice around the coax, holds much better than a larger and more stiff cable tie wrapped once. I locate the tie about 3/8 of an inch from the end of the outer jacket, on the outer jacket. Wrap the tie twice around the coax, and pull it tight. As you pull the excess coax out of the box, the ties will hit the grommets and prevent the coax from being pulled out of the box. At this point you should have three dressed coax ends in the box, with sufficient length to reach around in the box.
  • Measure 7 inches from one end of the 18 inch aluminum tube. Drill   a hole with a diameter that will grip the #8 stainless steel sheet metal screws.
  • Put that end (nearest the screw hole) onto the bottom dowel. If the coax is already tied to the dowel ends, it will be necessary to put the tube over the dowel before attaching the box. If you attach the box before putting the tube on the dowel, you will have to remove the antenna from the dowel ends in order to get enough slack to get the tube over the bottom dowel.
  • Put a sheet metal screw through the terminal strip, through the box, and screw it into the hole in the 18 inch tube. The tube should be positioned so that the antenna wire is not offering any resistance, but not so far up the bottom tube that the screw enters the dowel.
  • With a single screw holding the box to the tube, align the box so that it is sitting squarely on the tube. Drill a hole into the aluminum tube through the remaining box hole. Insert a second screw into that hole, and screw into the tube. The aluminum box is now securely mounted on the tube.
  • With the box mounted on the tube, and the antenna running out of the box and around the ends of the dowels, the tube can be pulled away from the center of the antenna, taking up any slack in the antenna coax. If the antenna is unbalanced around the perimeter of the antenna, adjust it at this point. Snug up the cable ties on the dowel ends. Come down about an inch from the end of the tube over the dowel, and drill a hole to hold the last #8 screw. This screw must penetrate into the dowel.
  • Mechanical assembly is now complete. All remaining electrical work takes place inside the box. The box is a rather cramped place. The three coax cables are somewhat rigid. I find that a 30 watt pencil-style soldering iron works well for soldering connections in the box
  • Connect the three coax braids together, and connect them to the ground lug of the terminal strip. This means that the box and the 18 inch aluminum tube are grounded. I have built loop boxes where the feed line is connected exclusively to the secondary of the impedance matching transformer. Ground is therefore not common between the feed line and the loop shield. I could not tell a difference in loop performance. Either way seems equivalent.
  • Connect the two antenna center conductors to two nongrounded terminal strip lugs. Connect the trimmer capacitor to the same terminals. I find that the terminal strip is more than strong enough to support the trimmer.
  • Select one side of the trimmer to be the loop output. It can be either side of the trimmer.
  • If you are not using a matching transformer, you are done. Electrically, the trimmer is connected across the loop wires and the output signal is taken from either side. If you wish to add the transformer, follow the remaining step.
  • Through experimentation, I have found that with #75 ferrite material on a 1/2 inch core, the transformer primary is 5 turns, and the secondary is 15 turns. The primary, the low impedance side, is connected to the loop output side of the trimmer. The other end of the primary goes to ground. The high impedance side (15 turns) connects between the feed line center conductor and ground. I use solid hookup wire to make the windings.

Checkout and Adjustment

Connect the antenna to an antenna analyzer. Set the analyzer to the desired frequency on the 80 meter band. If your analyzer provides antenna reactance (X) data, adjust the trimmer for resonance, that is, reactance equals zero. If not, adjust the trimmer for the lowest SWR. If you are using the matching transformer, you should be able to achieve a 1:1 SWR. I add or subtract turns on the secondary until I get a 1:1 SWR (once I am at resonance). If you are not using the matching transformer, then the point of lowest SWR is probably not the point of resonance, but they should be close.
Assuming the addition of a transformer to match the loop to the coax and provide a 1:1 SWR at resonance, the 2:1 SWR bandwidth was measured to be 36 KHz.   Once you get approximately 50 KHz away from resonance, the loop signal (and noise) output will drop by several dB. This is not really a problem, as most all receivers have more than enough gain to compensate. Still, if you want maximum output from the loop, you should adjust the resonance point to your desired frequency.

On-the-Air

It is almost a necessity to use a radio that has the ability to accept a separate receive antenna. Fortunately, this feature is becoming standard on most all recent vintage radios.
There are a number of ways to mount the antenna. For inside use, you could simply lean it up against a wall. The antenna should be kept vertical, and potentially rotated to null out local interference. I had a used wooden spool for holding coax that provided a good mount though the center hole. I simply laid the spool on its side, and placed the 3/4 inch aluminum tube base in the spool hole. You could also take a piece of wood, such as a foot long section of a 2X6, and drill a 3/4 inch hole in it to act as a base.
Outside, the simplest mount would be to push the 3/4 inch aluminum tube into the ground. the only down side of this approach is that the tube will get filled with dirt. A variation on the this theme is to drive a short length of 5/8 inch tubing into the ground, then slip the antenna tube over the 5/8 inch tube, since the two sizes telescope. Now the antenna tube will stay clean, and the antenna can be easily rotated. I have also used an elastic cord to strap the antenna to a deck railing. The antenna could also be hung from a low tree branch with a short length of strong string.
Some sources suggest putting a loop on a rotator so that the nulls can be easily moved. I have never had this setup, so I cannot comment on its value. It is interesting to use the loop in the shack, however, where it can be turned by hand. I find this especially interesting right before sunset. So long as there is daylight, it's a good bet that most signals are arriving via ground wave, at a very low angle. As you rotate the loop, the broadside nulls will be quite obvious. There should be very little advantage in raising a loop high off of the ground. Operation at ground level is just fine.
I prefer the loop outside. I have mounted mine on a wooden deck handrail, a few feet off of the ground. This gives me the best results. Inside my second story bedroom shack, there is too much local noise (computers, TVs, etc), and I believe that I lose a few dB of signal (and noise). This is compared to being out in a flat field, almost 100 feet from the nearest building.

Ελικοειδής κεραία μεσαίων










Φορητή κεραία μεσαίων

I wanted a good 160m antenna to work stations while static mobile. After finding out that a commercial one was around £50 I decided to make one. The only expense was a reel of enameled copper wire of .75mm which was less than £10 & had enough wire to make at least 2 coils for 160m with enough spare for an 80m coil.

 Other bits were all found in my garage/workshop, such as some old alloy tent poles & a piece of plastic water pipe. 
                                                
To mount my antenna, I had a friend make me a piece of stainless steel tube , 6 ½” Long by 1 1/8” diameter external & approx ¾” internal diameter. The tube had a 3/8” thread at the bottom to connect to a mag-mount.
  This would allow the antenna with a base tube of less than ¾” diameter, to be mounted to the car.

 The antenna was made using 4 alloy tubes, 1 plastic tube & a 5 foot whip. Once constructed, the antenna would split into two pieces for storing in the car.

  The bottom 2 feet of the antenna was made using 2 pieces of tubing, one nested inside the other. Then I nested a 2 foot length of water pipe over the bottom section. The water pipe was just over ¾” diameter & the tubes were drilled & had a nut & bolt fastened through them so they would remain rigid. Finally I added another one foot of aluminum tubing. This would be one half of the antenna.

   The next half of the antenna was another piece of tubing, just over 2 feet long, with a whip stud fitted so I could use a five foot or six foot whip at varying heights to enable full coverage of 160m.

   I wound about 115 feet of the .75mm enameled copper wire onto the plastic former.
This was close wound & taped on. The ends of the wire were attached to the top & bottom of the aluminum tubes either side of the plastic tube. Then the coil was covered in some blue heat shrink to seal it.

When operating, I found the total height of the antenna was about ten foot tall on my local net frequency of 1.972 MHz   . The antenna was taller than this when used in the DX window, around 1.845 MHz  

  This antenna works well for me & I have worked stations all around the UK & Europe so far. I am currently working on a base loaded antenna for 160m. The antenna was a homebrew one which only stood about 5 feet tall. I’m going to take some wire off the coil so I can gain some height by using a larger whip.

  Check out the pictures of my Homebrew mobile antenna. I also plan to make one for 40m in the future. This will be made so that I can use the top alloy tube & adjustable whip from my 160m antenna. I hope to make the antenna about the same overall size. A smaller coil will be the main difference.

Aerial Support

Base Section

Centre Section Former

Centre Section Coil

Centre section Heatshrinked Coil

Top section

Whole Aerial

Κεραία loop για λήψη


To make this loop take 20 feet of RG59 coax. Half way along the coax , At the point that will become the top of the loop, break the shield for 1 inch. Place a variable trimmer capacitor (400pf) inside a waterproof project box. I mounted mine on some wood, with a hole drilled for the trimmer shaft to sit in. I glued the trimmer cap to the wood.
Next, join the 2 centre conductors to the 2 trimmer tabs (see photos) Join the braids to each other & the braid on a short piece of RG59 to connect to a surface mount SO239 .
The centre of this short piece of coax should join the centre of the S0239 with the variable trimmer.
Finally, adjust the loop for resonance using an analyzer. Start with the trimmer screwed in, then gradually screw out, using an insulated screwdriver.
You can make formers for your loop & mount on a fence like myself, or on a rotator.
Good Luck,
M0VEY, Phil.

Loop Trimmer Capacitor

The Trimmer capacitor & way of joining the coax to make the receive loop operational

Οικονομική κεραία 160m - 6m

Preamble
It was developed simply because of my own personal circumstances which meant I often had to play radio from restricted QTH's. My employment in discrete antennas sure helped me out, as not only did I have demanding customers for discrete antennas but I find myself missing amateur radio when operating from hotel rooms abroad or "digs" in the UK!
Of course I've done all the large antennas from home but it's too easy and I wanted to have a bit of a challenge from building COMPLETE indoor stations totally indoors and so the following has been in use for the past few years by myself almost daily.
The antenna is nothing more than a simple 2.4 metre square loop "drawing pinned" to the internal brick wall of the spare bedroom. Yep, thats right, the inside wall of the spare bedroom - ideal for flat dwellers, hotel rooms or whinging neighbours!
It is currently used with it's base height at 3m AGL.
The loop has a simple switched inductance at the top of the square loop and uses a simple coaxial stub to tune the antenna. An additional variable capacitor placed across the feedpoint can be used to fine tune the resonance of the antenna. The basic configuration is shown below.


At J1 or J2 the coaxial stub can be replaced by a good quality ATU, preferably one which doesn't use toroids!
A balun is not required and at the most a simple choke style balun made from about 6 turns of coax and about 6 inches diameter can be used to attenuate radiation from the feeder cable. Good quality ATU's are expensive and often cost around 300 pounds sterling so to cut costs the simple coaxial stub can be use to utilise the self inductance and capacitance to from a tuned matching circuit to provide a 50ohm match to the amateur tranceiver. It is also possible to connect a variable capacitor at either the beginning or the end of the coaxial stub in order to provide across band fine tuning. The antenna is fed by simple 50 ohm coaxial line.


Here's the description of the antenna at various bands.
160m
Use 100uH inductance at the top.
A coaxial stub which is open ended RG58 style coax is 48cm long.
Open ended means just dangle a piece of coax at point J2 with braid to one side and centre to the other. The end is left "open" or with a simple variable capacitor for fine tuning. Results have been reasonable for local working but not amazing. Generally I qso 50 miles or so.
80m
Using ZERO inductance and a 139cm stub plus 5 watts I have made plenty of UK/EU qso's with this antenna. Obviously larger antennas are better but expect your signal to be about 2 s-points down from stations using full size antennas and assuming the same power output.
40m
Using 10 watts I have had some QSO's around the UK but I am not keen on this band so my experience is limited. Zero inductance and a 39cm stub is required.
30m
THIS BAND AND QRP IS BRILLIANT! 5 watts rarely fails to get a QSO. I have only operated in the daytime when I have had numerous QSO's around europe with just 5 watts with no hassle. Just use a 30cm stub and zero inductance.
20m
Numerous european and north american qso's made in the direction of radiation of a normal quad loop. Use 15uH of inductance for best results.
17m
Use a 3cm stub and zero inductance.
Numerous north americans, the middle east on 1 watt and Russian ragchews are easy.
Due to the radiation pattern of the antenna in my QTH I am best placed for north American and middle eastern QSO's.
15m
All over north america, the carribean and some south Americans with 10 watts.
1 watt to the Lebanon and recently my first call was answered by the 3B9C expedition using 25 watts of ssb. Countless europeans of 5w cw. North Americans worked by the truckload. Brazil also worked. Use zero inductance and 6cm of coaxial stub.
12m
Plenty of north americans and europeans. Use 9cm of RG58 stub and zero inductance for best results.
10m
Plenty of north American, the caribbean and the middle east as well as Europeans on 29MHz FM and I only used a max of 25 watts. Brazil also worked. Use 15cm of coaxial stub and zero inductance.
Remember the quad loop up on all these freqs is like a horizontal dipole and as such is directional.

HOWEVER we can perform a useful trick here - use 60uH of inductance and you can rotate the radiation in the opposite direction and with vertical polarisation! A rotatable indoor dipole without rotating it! This time you use 60uH of inductance at the top of the loop and approx 20cm of open ended coaxial stub.
I've worked gawd knows amounts of north americans, south americans, central americans, the middle east, europeans and Russia and south african stations with only 10-20 watts ssb.
Remember all of the above has taken place outside the sunspot maxima.
6m
In the summer sporadic E season it is typical to be able to work distance about 1500 miles. With only 5 watts cw/ssb I have had plenty of qso's at this distance with ease in the direction of the loop, which is in the same direction of a normal quad loop. I don't frequent 50Mhz all that often but it's pleasing to work exactly the same typical distances as every one else with this silly antenna!
NOTES
This antenna is like any other antenna - it's just a resonant circuit that radiates. The loop is the inductance and all you need to do is add the required capacitance to it to for a tuned and radiating circuit.
Rules of thumb are that the smaller the loop the more capacitance you need to resonate it. When tuning a coaxial stub you simply snip off 5mm at a time to provide the required match. Circumstances vary! So be prepared for slight differences to stub lengths etc. It is perfectly in order to have a reasonable variation in loop length and adjust sub length/variable capacitance in order to suit.
All polarisation is horizontal except for 160m where it is vertical OR on 28Mhz using 60uH inductance it also becomes vertical polarisation.
This antenna as described is in use by G0FTD every day and provides many happy hours of operating - so I know it works.
With the restrictions placed upon so many of us these days it really is pleasing to report a real antenna that allow just about anyone to play amateur radio with some sense of normality. Youngsters with parents can put up this antenna in their bedrooms, pensioners can (and have) used this antenna in retirement homes and restricted accommodation, students and flat dwellers can use it to at least continue their chosen hobby.
Noise is a big problem on receive and is often very restrictive. Sorry folks but it's a problem we ALL suffer from. Apart from operating at night when hopefully the local TV's have been turned off there's not a lot we can do.

CONCLUSION
Amateur radio IS possible under the most extreme circumstances so long as you don't expect all freqs to be 100% qrm free on recieve and that you'll have to expect your signal to be a few s-points lower. In practice it's not really a problem and then it pays to think that if your using a bit of "damp string" and a few watts your acheivement is damn good compared to all the sillywotsits who spent 1000's of euros/pounds/dollars and massive
effort for towers/kilowatt amps/expensive aluminium tubes to make yagi's blah blah.
It's all relative folks - so enjoy amateur radio under your own circumstances and stop feeling left out!
A BETTER LF ANTENNA.
I have also tried a 4.2m x 2.4m loop with excellent results on the LF bands. It seems to outperform the previous antenna on the LF bands by quite a large margin. The antenna is a corner fed loop as shown here.

I have NOT tried coaxial stubs with this antenna. I have only use an atu for matching at the point of J1. Never use an atu at the rig end!
However, I have used computer modelling to assist me attain a high degree of accuracy with the previous antenna, so here are the recommended starting points for using open ended coaxial RG58 stubs.















Band
Stub Length
160m
70cm stub
80m
5cm
40m
19cm
30m
38cm
20m
48cm
17m
6cm
15m
7cm
12m
12cm
10m
5.5cm
6m
8.5cm